Rockwool пароизоляция: Изоляционные материалы Rockwool для утепления дома, квартиры. Пароизоляция Rockwool для кровель, стен, потолка

«Гидро-пароизоляция ROCKWOOL®» в Санкт-Петербурге ТСК-ПРАЙМ

Гидро-пароизоляция ROCKWOOL – материал из высокопрочной полипропиленовой ткани с односторонним ламинированием полипропиленом. Этот двухслойный материал применяется в конструкциях утепления дома, квартиры для защиты конструкций от воздействия атмосферной влаги и конденсата. Повышенная прочность гидро-пароизоляционного покрытия обуславливает способность материала выдерживать значительные механические усилия при проведении монтажных работ и в процессе эксплуатации. Гидро-пароизоляция отличается стабильностью к воздействию UV и высокой прочностью, за счет чего возможно применение в качестве временного покрытия для гидроизоляции в конструкции крыш и стен на срок до 3-4 месяцев.

Применение

Гидро-пароизоляция предназначена для применения в ограждающих конструкциях: — отапливаемых зданий; — бетонных полов; — плоских кровель с утеплением; — неутепленных скатных кровель.

Конструкция неутепленной скатной кровли Кровельное покрытие Вентиляционный зазор (5 см) Гидро-пароизоляция ROCKWOOL Обрешетка Утеплитель Лайт Баттс Скандик Пароизоляция Роквул (логотипом в сторону тёплого помещения)
Конструкция с армированной цементно-песочной стяжкой Плита перекрытия Утеплитель ROCKWOOL Флор Баттс Вставки из плит Флор Баттс по периметру Гидро-пароизоляция ROCKWOOL Цементно-песчаная стяжка с армированием (не менее 30 мм) Финишное покрытие

Упаковка и размеры

Материал поставляется в рулонах, упаковка – полиэтиленовая пленка. Ширина рулона составляет 1.60 м, общая площадь материала в рулоне – 70 кв. м.гидро- пароизоляционная плёнка

90000 3 Reasons It’s Awesome for Homeowners 90001 90002 Rockwool insulation is awesome. 90003 90002 There’s no contest. 90003 90002 A few years back my wife and I remodeled our master bathroom. 90003 90002 We researched different insulations and concluded Roxul (at the time) was the best option. 90003 90002 Roxul recently changed it’s name to Rockwool. 90003 90002 So we partnered with them to get the word out because we believe in Rockwool. 90003 90002 Plus we have three cool demonstrations that show why you should use this insulation in your home! 90003 90016 90017 90018 What is Rockwool Insulation Made Of? 90019 90020 90002 I’ve been asked this question a lot by readers and friends: 90003 90002 90024 What the heck is Rockwool insulation? 90025 90003 90002 Rockwool insulation is a rock-based mineral fiber insulation made from Basalt rock and recycled slag.90003 90002 Basalt is a volcanic rock that’s naturally made by the Earth. Think Hawaiian islands. 90003 90002 Slag is a by-product of the steel and copper industry. Think Pittsburgh Steelers. 90003 90002 We’re from the Burgh — could not resist a Steelers reference. 90003 90002 Rockwool is made when Basalt and slag are melted then spun into fibers. Those fibers are then made into batts which slide between studs or joists. 90003 90002 90003 90002 In case you’re wondering, between 16% to 40% of Rockwool is made from pre-consumer recycled material.90003 90002 Let’s get into the 3 reasons my wife and I chose this type of insulation. 90003 90002 90003 90017 90018 What is the Best Insulation for Soundproofing? 90019 90020 90002 Research Google and you’ll find Rockwool insulation typically gets voted one of the best options for soundproofing. 90003 90002 It helps with both low and high frequency sounds. 90003 90002 Quick story, back in college my first dorm was just below a helicopter pad near the local hospital. Between that and ambulances it was a rough first semester.90003 90002 90018 Bottom line: 90019 90003 90002 If you want better sleep and live in a noisy area then Rockwool could help. 90003 90002 Sure, you’ll have to remove the existing drywall or plaster. But installing Rockwool is easy and quick. 90003 90002 And it can be cut with either a utility, drywall, or bread knife … clean that bread knife after using it. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Reason # 1 is soundproofing. 90003 90002 We do a lot of bathroom remodeling tutorials and constantly think about which products work best in wet conditions.90003 90002 Which brings us to the following … 90003 90016 90017 90018 What Happens When Rockwool Gets Wet? 90019 90020 90002 It repels water and does not lose R-Value. 90003 90002 This is truly important in bathrooms because a certain amount of water vapor gets into the walls while you’re showering. 90003 90002 We learned this a long time ago while attending a Schluter class on 90003.90000 Air barriers: how to build an airtight house 90001 90002 Climate Zone 3A in the South Eastern US is a predominantly hot and humid climate with a certain amount heating days, so you’re obviously doing more cooling than heating, which will impact the ‘ ideal basement wall assembly ‘. 90003 90002 Given the description of the wall assembly you listed, we realize you’re not likely to change course, but even just for other readers we need to point out that in an ideal world you would always insulate a basement from the exterior.Structures are like humans in the sense that they prefer balanced temperatures rather than constantly being in flux with seasonal changes. 90003 90002 Having said that, when you’re already doing an interior basement renovation, we realize it makes sense to do your work on the inside rather than absorb the additional cost of insulating a basement from the exterior, as you would be looking at thousands in additional excavation costs to remove and replace dirt. 90003 90002 So, if we were to be 90009 insulating a Cinder Block Foundation 90010 from the interior using Rockwool, here are the factors we would prioritize and how we would do it.90003 90002 First, the three main rules of durable basement construction are — water management, insulation, and airtightness. 90003 90002 Our first suggested assembly for interior basement insulation would be a vapor barrier membrane directly against the concrete block foundation, with a channel at the bottom for drainage, either a surface drain in the concrete, or we would remove the concrete from the floor along the perimeter and install a French drain. That way you keep the moisture out in the first place, and you create a drainage route for any water that may accumulate on the foundation wall and drain to the floor.This would also have the advantage of creating a radon gas membrane (See our pages on Radon barriers in basements for more information). Then we would add rigid insulation panels, a stud wall with batts, and drywall with latex paint. 90003 90002 But — the assembly you mention would work, however, we would not include the smart membrane in that case. The predominant source of humidity would be the walls, not the interior air, so we would allow the moisture to dry inwards and manage it with either a dehumidifier, or and HRV or ERV (Heat Recovery Ventilation / Energy Recovery Ventilation).90003 90002 The Rockwool insulation boards can go right against the CMU wall (Rockwool / mineral wool is not harmed by moisture, so you alleviate the risk or mold forming inside walls. Then add the stud wall (with batts in the cavities). Unless you need the smart membrane to appease a building inspector, we would omit it. Where the wall will be half-backfilled, it will only be able to dry to the interior, so let it keep doing that. Meaning, install drywall directly on the studs rather than including a smart vapor barrier membrane (Intello or Smart Membrain from Certainteed) 90003 90002 The inconsistencies in a concrete block foundation mean there will be a small air space regardless of how you space it, and air spaces are always good to have.But, it is also very important to make it airtight. If you have a Basement wall with a high air leakage rate then you risk having a convection loop where warm, humid air is constantly being delivered to a cold surface behind your stud wall. So, we would also recommend an Airtight Drywall Approach (ADA), which you can achieve with caulking, acoustic sealant and backer rods, and thick sill gaskets underneath the bottom plate of the stud wall. 90003 90002 Regarding the smart membrane and how they work — they typically meet the requirements to be classified as code-compliant vapor barrier in cold months, when interior moisture is higher than exterior.In the summer months, the pores of the membrane are more open, which allows a small amount of moisture to pass through. They are designed more for colder climates than yours where vapour barriers are part of code but where cooling loads are also fairly significant. 90003 90002 One of the best things about smart membranes is that they ‘look’ like typical vapor barriers when inspectors come by, but they are more breathable. Building Code has not kept up with building science, and you should NEVER cover a basement stud wall with 6 mil poly, yet many inspectors insist on it, so this can appease them, but it does not do the harm of a typical vapor barrier .90003 90002 90003.90000 Vapor Barrier Paint & Primer Works Better than Polyethylene 90001 90002 Vapor Barriers in walls, why polyethylene can be problematic 90003 90004 90005 It would probably surprise many home builders to hear what really causes moisture accumulation in walls, and what to do to prevent it 90006. An understanding of how water vapor moves through walls is important, so a good place to start would be with our page explaining moisture movement in homes (see related articles below).90007 90004 The traditional approach to preventing water vapor from penetrating walls in homes is a 6 mil polyethylene vapour barrier, or ‘vapor barrier’ for our southern neighbours. This is an ideal building practice in the extreme northern communities of Canada, less so as you come further south. Despite it being used extensively in residential construction, it can be overkill in most Canadian homes, and can cause problems of its own. 90007 90004 90011 90005 «One of the problems in the building industry is that we have a spreading ‘cult-like’ mentality that worships at the ‘church of polyethylene’.This cult views the answer to all moisture problems as the installation of a polyethylene vapor barrier on the inside of buildings. This cult is responsible for many more building failures than building successes. It’s time that the cult deprogramming started. «90006 90014 90007 90004 90011 90005 — Joe Lstiburek, Principal of Building Science Corporation 90006 90014 90007 90004 The USA & Canada has many climatic zones, so there is not one building envelope that can possibly serve them all.The automatic installation of a polyethylene vapour barrier in every home from the Hudson Bay to the vineyards of Southern Ontario to the deserts of Arizona meets the state & provincial building codes, but completely ignores the reality of how different those climates are. 90007 90004 Many parts of the country can range from extreme cold to extreme heat and humidity, with temperatures that vary as much as 60 degrees Celsius or more. In areas like that, the vapour barrier that works great in February is not doing you any favours in July.During those 30 + ° Celsius days with relative humidity levels upwards of 80% and an indoor air-conditioned environment some 10 degrees cooler, that vapour barrier is on the wrong side. 90007 90004 Is the solution then to 90011 not 90014 install a vapour barrier? No, but since there is not a perfect solution that meets the needs of both climatic extremes, we should find a solution that at least takes them both into account. 90007 90004 The vast majority of Americans & Canadians live in a temperate climate, so for most of us a vapour barrier (or more accurately semi-permeable vapor retarder) that allows a certain amount of water vapour to pass through a wall could actually serve us better over the course of the year.90007 90004 As warm, humid air cools, air molecules shrink and squeeze out the moisture. This can be a problem if it happens inside your walls, so vapour barriers are there to mitigate that. 90007 90004 In order to prevent condensation from forming, a vapour barrier should be placed on the warm side of your insulation to stop warm, moist air from condensing on a cold surface inside your wall. 90007 90004 In cold climates like Canada, for most of the year the vapour barrier should be on the inside of the insulation.In hot climates like the southern U.S. for example, it should be installed on the outside of the insulation. 90007 90004 In both cases, the vapour barrier is tasked with preventing warm, humid air from shedding its moisture as it meets a cool surface, no matter which direction it is travelling. 90007 90004 The most important thing to realize is that there is no fixed rule regarding vapor barriers. Building practices should always be determined by the climate zone in which you are building. 90007 90002 Understanding vapor barriers: 90003 90004 The National Building Code of Canada stipulates that for residential buildings, a vapour barrier must have a water vapour permeance of less than 60 ng / Pa * s * m2 or 1.0 Perm. That means that no more than 60 nanograms of water vapour can pass through a square meter of the material in one second. Nanograms are pretty small by the way, that’s one billionth of a gram. 90007 90004 Traditionally, a polyethylene vapour barrier (with a vapour permeance rating of 3.4 ng) is installed behind the drywall in new Canadian homes. In fact, you would be hard pressed to find a home being built in Canada right now that does not have it, or something equally impermeable to moisture.This does not mean that there are not other options out there, they just are not being applied. 90007 90004 In the US any material that has a perm rating of 1 or less is considered to be an adequate vapor retarder for residential construction. As requirements vary between states we suggest giving your local permit office a call to establish their recommendations. The perm rating is a measure of the diffusion of water vapor through a material & the table below shows the perm rating of some common building materials that are consistent with the ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals and other industry sources.90007 90050 US perm rates for common materials ASHRAE Handbook 90004 The problem is largely because the 6 mil poly that gets installed as a vapour barrier is mistaken for, and almost entirely relied upon to act as the air barrier. The purpose of the two barriers should not be confused — the job of the vapour barrier is to control vapour diffusion, the job of the air barrier is to control air leakage. 90007 90004 6 mil poly 90011 can 90014 work effectively as an air barrier if it is carefully sealed, but so can other materials.Well-sealed drywall in itself makes a great air barrier. But unless you install polyethylene with the express purpose of it 90011 being 90014 an air barrier, it likely is not doing the job. And in fact, the term ‘air barrier’ is rarely if ever used in mainstream residential construction, and it really should be. 90007 90002 Vapour retarder latex primers: 90003 90004 Firstly, the classification of a material as either an impermeable ‘vapour barrier’ or a semi-permeable ‘vapour retarder’ is determined by how much water vapour passes through the material under specific conditions.90007 90004 There are vapour retarder primers on the market that exceed the requirements of the National Building Code of Canada & local US building code regarding water vapour diffusion, with a vapour permeance in the area of ​​30 to 36 ng, which is about half of the 60 ng often allowed by code. 90007 90065 90066 90067 90068 90069 90070 90067 90068 90004 Vapor barrier primer meets building code © Ecohome 90007 90069 90070 90077 90078 90004 So concerns that primers are insufficient to control vapour diffusion are unfounded, they just are not widely used.But keep in mind that the construction industry can be slow to adopt new practices, regardless of the merits. So do not be intimidated if you want to break the norm. 90007 90002 Air leakage: 90003 90004 Now that we have looked at some options regarding vapour barriers time to understand the difference to air barriers, and firstly it should be pointed out that the water vapour permeating through building materials — the reason for installing a vapour barrier — is not the monster it has been made out to be.100 times more water vapour is carried though a wall assembly by air leakage, than is carried by vapour diffusion. So the air barrier is 100 times more important than the vapour barrier. 90007 90004 Therefore, we really do not need to go to the extremes that we do regarding vapour barriers, as it actually takes the focus away from what we should be thinking about, which is creating an effective air barrier. 90007 90004 90005 So here is the summed-up case for the «poly-free» house, and a bit of perspective 90006: 90007 90091 90092 Water vapour diffusion through building materials accounts for only about 2% of moisture penetration through walls, and a vapour retarder primer can be twice as effective as it needs to be.90093 90092 Polyethylene is some 15 times more resistant to water vapour diffusion than it needs to be; it’s expensive to buy and install; is environmentally questionable; and it can actually cause problems in the summer months. 90093 90096 90004 In much of the country, you could take the time and money you would have spent on installing polyethylene on the entire exterior wall of your home, and instead put those resources into a latex vapour retarder paint on primer and a properly sealed air barrier.There are hard cost savings to be had doing this, and an improvement in both performance and durability. 90007 90004 The one glitch in the system, is that building inspectors can also be subject to the same conditioning that a lot of builders are, and do not realize that in many cases there are better options available than polyethylene for controlling water vapor in homes. When you take your plans in to get a permit, make sure it is clear what material you plan to use for water vapor control, so that you can go into battle then, and not during a home inspection after construction is complete.90007 90101 References: 90102 90004 90011 Lstiburek (2004): 90014 90007 90004 90011 U.S. Building Code requirements for vapor retarders are proposed based on climate and properties of other materials in the wall assembly. Identified hygrothermal regions include those applicable to Canada. Most assemblies do not use polyethylene and incorporate latex paint or vapor semi-permeable interior finishes. 90014 90007 90004 90011 The following main principles are recommended: 90014 90007 90091 90092 90011 Avoid vapor barriers where vapor retarders will work, avoid vapor retarders where vapor permeable materials will work.90014 90093 90092 90011 Avoid the installation of a vapor barrier on both sides of the wall assembly. 90014 90093 90092 90011 Avoid using poly, foil faced batts, reflective barrier foils, and vinyl wall coverings on the interior of air-conditioned assemblies. 90014 90093 90092 90011 Ventilate enclosures 90014 90093 90096 90101 To read 90005 why you should not install air conditioning in a home with a polyethylene vapor barrier see here 90006, from 90005 the EcoHome Green Building guides 90006 90102 .