Какой паяльник выбрать для пайки проводов: для дома, для пайки проводов, мощность паяльника

Как выбрать паяльник для пайки проводов и микросхем Одним из основных инструментов радиолюбителей, домашних мастеров и электриков является паяльник. Это изделие позволяет соединять отрезки светодиодных лент, выпаивать радиодетали из плат, ремонтировать электроприборы и делать еще кучу полезных действий. На сегодняшний день существует достаточно большой ассортимент моделей, различных по функциональности, принципу работы и комплектации. В этой статье мы расскажем читателям сайта Сам Электрик, как выбрать паяльник для пайки проводов и микросхем.

Основные критерии выбора

Итак, сначала вкратце рассмотрим самые важные параметры, на которые стоит обращать внимание при покупке паяльника.

Тип нагревателя

В первую очередь приспособления делятся на электрические и газовые. Сначала поговорим о тех, которые работают на газу.

Газовый паяльник рекомендуется выбрать для пайки проводов в распределительных коробках. Он удобен тем, что работает в автономном режиме, без электричества, что актуально при электромонтажных работах. К тому же, такой прибор может использоваться как фен для термоусадки.

К недостаткам газовых устройств можно отнести сложность работы с микросхемами, а также тот факт, что при горении газа в атмосферу выбрасываются вредные для организма вещества, поэтому долго работать с таким приспособлением крайне опасно для здоровья.

Выбрать электрический паяльник целесообразно для пайки микросхем и тех же самых проводов, если нет проблем с электроснабжением. Электрические модели делятся на следующие типы:

1. Спиральный. Самый дешевый, практичный и долговечный тип нагревателя. Недостаток — долго греется, но это не так важно, если вам нужно выбрать паяльник для дома.
2. Керамический. Более дорогой и в то же время хрупкий (может перестать работать даже при небольшом ударе). Преимущество — быстро нагревается. Если для вас главной выбрать прибор такой, чтобы быстро и сильно нагревался, модель с керамическим нагревателем будет самым оптимальным решением.
3. Импульсный. Еще один вариант исполнения, который способен быстро нагреваться. Импульсный паяльник лучше выбрать для пайки микросхем и для работы с печатными платами. Такой инструмент будет стоить дороже и используется в большей степени только для перечисленных работ.

Отдельно следует упомянуть о таком варианте исполнения, как паяльная станция. С ее помощью можно быстрее и качественнее осуществить пайку проводов и микросхем. Для радиолюбителей выбор паяльной станции будет самым оптимальным решением!

Мощность

Что касается выбора мощности электрического паяльника, то тут следует учитывать следующие рекомендации:

• мощность до 10 Вт может использоваться для пайки простейших микросхем;
• от 20 до 40 Вт — это оптимальная мощность для применения в бытовых условиях;
• выбрать модель на 60-100 Вт целесообразно, если вы собираетесь паять провода;
• свыше 100 Вт домашним мастерам не стоит использовать, т.к. у таких приспособлений своя специфическая сфера применения (пайка радиаторов, металлических деталей и и т.д.).

Дополнительные возможности

Также при выборе паяльника следует обратить внимание на такие моменты, как:

1. Ручка должна быть хорошо защищена от перегрева. В этом случае деревянная ручка обладает самым лучшим показателем. Пластиковые ручки быстрее разогреваются, что мешает бесперебойной работе, а эбонитовые тяжелее аналогов, что также снижает удобство пользования, особенно при пайке микросхем.
2. Жало должно быть медным, оно проще обрабатывается и к тому же легче чистится от нагара. Желательно чтобы в комплекте шел набор жал, различных по форме. Также хорошо, если есть возможность заменить жало или же отрегулировать его длину. Считается, что прямое жало самое удобное для работы, особенно новичкам.
3. Сетевой шнур должен быть гибким, длинным и обязательно в двойной изоляции.
4. Вилка для подключения к сети лучше, когда разборная. Вроде бы мелочь, но все же свидетельствует о качестве устройства и в то же время упрощает его ремонт.
5. Обращайте внимание на комплектацию. Как правило, качественные паяльники снабжаются кейсом, подставкой для жала, губкой для очистки жала и т.д.
6. Рекомендуем выбрать паяльник с терморегулятором, что позволит под собственные условия применения отрегулировать температуру нагрева жала.
7. Функция постоянной поддержки температуры защитит устройство от перегорания.

Это и все советы, которые мы хотели вам предоставить. Как вы видите, существует множество нюансов, на которые нужно обращать внимание при выборе паяльника для дома.

Подводим итоги

Итак, вы изучили основные критерии, по которым осуществляется выбор инструмента для пайки проводов и микросхем. Теперь еще раз вкратце подведем итоги, чтобы закрепить изученное:

1. Для печатных плат и микросхем лучше выбрать импульсный паяльник либо спиральный, но мощностью не более 30 Вт.
2. Для соединения проводов и остальных электромонтажных работ подойдет газовая модель либо электрическая, мощностью от 60 до 100 Вт.
3. Чтобы паять металлические детали нужен мощный аппарат (от 100 Вт и более).

Также рекомендуем просмотреть полезное видео по теме:

Вот мы и разобрались, как выбрать паяльник для пайки проводов и микросхем. Надеемся, предоставленная инструкция помогла вам в выборе подходящего инструмента для домашнего использования!

Наверняка вы не знаете:

90000 How to Use a Soldering Iron 90001 90002 90003 Weller Soldering Basics Guide 90004 90005 90002 Soldering is a useful skill to have, whether you plan to use it professionally or for DIY projects. A quality soldering iron is one of the most important tools you’ll need for your soldering projects. 90005 90002 This guide will provide a brief overview of how to use a soldering iron.It will give you the basics that apply to most soldering work, as well as tips for specific types of projects. 90005 90002 Although all soldering relies on the same principles, the techniques and tools you use may vary depending on the type of materials you’re soldering and the kind of outcome you’re intending. On this page, we’ll cover step-by-step soldering for wiring, printed circuit boards, stained glass and jewelry. 90005 90002 Here’s your introductory guide to using a soldering iron. 90005 90003 The Basics 90004 90002 The fundamentals of soldering are mostly consistent across project types.Below you’ll find information about the basics of soldering, descriptions of the equipment involved and a basic step-by-step guide for how to use a soldering iron. 90005 90018 1. What Is Soldering? 90019 90002 Soldering is a technique for joining metal parts together. It involves melting a metal known as solder into the space between two metal components. When this solder cools and hardens, it forms a permanent connection between the parts. Solder acts as a sort of metallic glue that joins elements together.90005 90002 Joining electronic components may be the most common use of soldering irons. You can also use them on piping for plumbing, engine components, arts and crafts projects and more. 90005 90018 2. What Equipment Do You Need? 90019 90002 This article is about how to use a soldering iron, but the iron itself is not the only item you’ll need. Here’s a rundown of some of the supplies you may need to use, including a soldering iron, for a soldering project. 90005 90028 90029 90030 Soldering Iron: 90031 A soldering iron supplies the heat that melts the solder.It consists of a tip, which you apply to the metal parts you want to solder together, and an insulated handle so that you can hold the iron. There are several variations of soldering irons. Often, they are electrical and use an electrical cord or battery. Some also use the combustion of a gas such as butane or an open flame. Some irons allow you to adjust the temperature of the iron. 90032 90029 90030 Solder: 90031 Solder is the substance that melts and forms the bond between the two soldered components.It is a thin wire made of one of several tin alloys. The alloys consist of either tin and lead or tin and copper. Increasingly, lead-free solders are becoming the more popular of these two options. This trend is a response to increased safety regulations as well as the environmental and health benefits of seeking lead-free alternatives. Some types of solder also include flux, a substance that gets rid of oxide layers on metal parts to help the solder adhere better. 90032 90029 90030 Soldering Station: 90031 A soldering station acts as a control station for your soldering iron if you have an adjustable iron.The station has the controls for adjusting the temperature of the iron as well as other settings. You may plug your iron into this soldering station. 90032 90029 90030 Soldering Iron Stand: 90031 You might also use a soldering iron stand, which provides a safe, sturdy place to store your iron when you are not using it. It might also include a place to keep supplies for cleaning your iron. 90032 90029 90030 Cleaning Pad: 90031 It’s essential for proper performance to keep your iron clean while you use it.You may use a cleaning pad, steel or brass wool or a damp sponge. 90032 90029 90030 Safety Glasses: 90031 Safety goggles will help protect your eyes in case of accidents and keep fumes from irritating your eyes. 90032 90029 90030 Fume Extraction Equipment: 90031 Fumes created when soldering may be toxic. Fume extraction devices pull fumes from the air to reduce health and safety risks. 90032 90057 90003 Getting Set Up 90004 90002 Before you begin using your soldering iron, you’ll have to make sure that you’ve taken all the necessary safety measures and prepared your tools.90005 90018 1. Safety Measures 90019 90002 Health and safety should always be a priority when soldering. Soldering involves extreme heat and toxic substances. While it involves certain risks, if you take the proper precautions, soldering is a relatively safe activity. 90005 90002 Before getting started, read the instructions as well as the health and safety warnings that come with all of your equipment to ensure you’re using it correctly. When soldering, wear safety glasses and keep all hair, loose clothing and jewelry secured and out of the way of your tools.You may also want to wear safety gloves. 90005 90002 Be sure that you are working in a well-ventilated area or use a fume extraction device. The fumes from flux are toxic. If the solder you are using contains lead, wash your hands after you’re done working with it. 90005 90018 2. Cleaning and Tinning 90019 90002 For your soldering iron tip to work correctly, it needs to be clean and tinned. Any contaminants or oxidation will decrease the efficiency with which it conducts heat, making your job harder and reducing the quality of your solder joints.90005 90002 Before you start soldering, clean the tip of your iron by rubbing it against your cleaning pad. If your tip is badly oxidized, you may need to apply a tip reactivator. After cleaning or reactivating it, it should appear shiny rather than dull. 90005 90002 Tinning the tip of your iron involves coating it with a layer of solder. This practice protects the tip from oxidation and improves its ability to conduct heat. Tin the tip immediately before you begin soldering. 90005 90002 In addition to cleaning and tinning the tip of your iron before each soldering session, you should also do so after every two or three joints you solder and at the end of each soldering project.This will extend the life of your soldering iron tips and improve the quality of your soldering joints. 90005 90003 Joining Parts 90004 90002 Once you’ve completed the above steps, you’re ready to solder your components together. The techniques you’ll use will vary from project to project, but the basic step-by-step instructions are as follows: 90005 90084 90029 First, determine the right temperature for your project. Which temperature to use depends on the materials you’re joining and the kind of solder you’re using.As a general rule of thumb, the best temperature to use is the one that’s as low as possible while still being high enough to get the job done. In other words, if the temperature needed to do the job is 370 degrees or above, then set the temperature to exactly 370. This will help extend the life of your tools and avoid damaging any electronic components. 90032 90029 Once your iron is heated to the appropriate temperature, pick up the iron by the handle in one hand and hold a piece of solder in the other hand.Hold the hot iron to the place where the two metal components will meet for about a second to heat them up. You want to heat the metal parts, not the solder itself. 90032 90029 Then, touch the solder to the heated components. As the solder melts, it will flow into the gaps it needs to fill. Continue to feed in solder until a sufficient amount is melted. While you need enough to form a solid connection, you do not want to have too much solder either. The right amount will vary from project to project.This typically will not take more than a few seconds. 90032 90029 Allow the solder to cool. You do not need to take any action to cause it to cool. It will do so on its own and should not take longer than a few more seconds. 90032 90029 Check the soldering joint for quality. A good connection will appear smooth, uniform and shiny. Make sure that are not any problematic gaps between the components or globs of excess solder. 90032 90095 90003 Desoldering 90004 90002 If you made a mistake in your soldering, do not worry.You can undo and fix any problem areas relatively easily. If the problem is not excess solder, you may be able to resolder over the first joint with new solder. 90005 90002 A more thorough method of correcting a soldering mistake is to reheat the solder you applied and then to use a tool such as a «solder sucker,» which is a small syringe-like device that uses vacuum pressure to remove solder. You can also use a solder wick, also called a desoldering braid, which absorbs melted solder by capillary action.90005 90003 Cleaning Up 90004 90002 After you finish a soldering session, clean and tin your soldering iron tip. After allowing the iron to cool, store it in a secure location. To further prevent oxidation, especially if you will not be using the iron for a long time, place it in a sealed container. 90005 90003 Tips for Specific Soldering Projects 90004 90002 Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s look at how to do some specific types of soldering. 90005 90018 1. How to Use a Soldering Iron for Joining Wires 90019 90002 You can use a soldering iron to create an electrical connection between two wires.Having a tool, such as a device called a third helping hand, to hold the cables for you is very helpful. A third helping hand consists of a weighted base, metal arms and crocodile clips that hold the wires in place. You can also use a pair of pliers to a similar effect. 90005 90084 90029 First, make sure some insulation is stripped off the end of the two wires to expose the metal filaments. 90032 90029 Then, twist the filaments of each wire together so that they act more like one solid unit.90032 90029 Next, tin the wires. To do this, touch the tip of the soldering iron to each wire to heat them. Then apply solder until the wire is soaked through. There should be solder throughout all of the filaments but not so much that the cable becomes overly stiff. This will help heat spread throughout the filaments more efficiently and make soldering easier. 90032 90029 Mechanically join your wires so that the solder is not the only thing holding them together. To do this, wrap the first wire around the second, leaving enough space to wrap the second wire around the first.The turns of the cable should lay next to one another. 90032 90029 Heat the mechanically joined wires with the soldering iron and apply solder. Use enough solder to fill in all the spaces and form a reliable electrical connection. 90032 90029 Once the two wires are connected, apply a heat-shrinkable tubing to isolate the wires and keep them shielded from any outside forces. This tubing will shrink under applied heat, helping it to adhere tightly to the wires and creating a form-fitting protective coating.90032 90095 90018 2. How to Solder Printed Circuit Boards 90019 90002 Soldering parts onto printed circuit boards (PCBs) is another frequent use of soldering irons. 90005 90084 90029 Start with the tallest components, and solder interconnecting wires last. For through-hole components, place them in the correct holes in the PCB. Make sure they sit flush against the board. 90032 90029 Bend the lead of the part slightly to keep it in place. 90032 90029 Once the soldering iron has reached the desired temperature, touch it to the pad to heat the lead of the component and the pad.Make sure the temperature is correct. Too low of a temperature can create a joint that does not provide an adequate electrical connection. Too high of a temperature can damage the components and board. 90032 90029 Then, apply the solder. The solder will flow around the component liquid. Use enough to create a solid connection without gaps but not so much that you’re left with excess solder. 90032 90029 Pull the iron straight up from the component. The solder joint should form a cone-like shape.90032 90029 Check your joint to make sure that it appears shiny and that there are not any gaps or too much solder 90032 90029 If the solder joint is adequate, cut the excess component lead above the joint. 90032 90095 90018 3. How to Solder Stained Glass 90019 90002 Solder is what holds the individual pieces of glass in a work of stained glass art together. Here’s how you use solder on stained glass. 90005 90084 90029 Before soldering, make sure the stained glass pieces fit together well and that the glass is clean.90032 90029 Apply copper foil to the edges of the glass because solder will not adhere to glass. This foil should be smooth and even so that the solder flows evenly. You do not need gaps in between the pieces, but solder will be able to fill small gaps. 90032 90029 Apply a small amount of flux and then solder to each joint to help hold them in place. 90032 90029 Then apply a layer of flux to all seams. The coating should be even and light but enough to cover all foil. 90032 90029 Start soldering about a quarter of an inch from the edge of your piece.Touch the heated iron lightly to the copper foil and feed in the solder. Move the iron and solder along the foil seam. If the solder seam appears flat, try going slower and using more solder. If it’s spilling over onto the glass, try going faster. Getting this part right takes practice. 90032 90029 Once you’re done with the first side of your, flip it over carefully while holding it from the edges near the middle of the piece. Apply a small amount of flux and then solder this side. 90032 90029 To finish the outside edges, tin them by making sure all copper foil gets covered with solder.Alternatively, you can apply a U-channel came — a small, U-shaped metal piece — for a more framed look. 90032 90095 90002 Some other tips include only using solid-core solder rather than acid-core or rosin-core solder as well as not applying heat for too long in any one area as this can cause the glass to break. 90005 90018 4. How to Solder Jewelry 90019 90002 You can solder jewelry using an open-flame torch, which can provide higher temperatures, but can also do so with a soldering iron.The precise techniques vary depending on the kind of item you want to make, and there’s more room for creativity with jewelry soldering. Search online for instructions on how to make specific pieces or experiment and create your own designs. 90005 90002 For example, you can bend silver, copper or other types of wire to form rings. You can solder the two ends of the bent wire to create a single ring, or solder multiple rings together to make a necklace or bracelet. Heat the wire where you want to join it and then apply solder.90005 90002 Some helpful jewelry soldering supplies include high-quality wire cutters and a third helping hand tool. 90005 90003 Explore Weller Tools for Your Soldering Needs 90004 90002 Whichever type of soldering project you’re undertaking, the right tools and techniques are crucial. Weller offers some of the most high-quality yet affordable soldering tools on the market. For entry-level professionals and hobbyists, the WE 1010 is a perfect match. It provides the most power in its class, easy-to-use controls and cost-effective operation at an affordable price.Explore our soldering irons, stations and accessories on our website or by visiting a Weller distributor. 90005 .90000 Ultimate Guide to Electronic Soldering 90001 90002 90003 90004 What is soldering? 90005 90006 90007 90004 Soldering is the joining of two metal surfaces mechanically and electrically, with the use of metal called solder (pronounced «sodder»). Solder secures the connection so it does not break loose from vibration, other mechanical forces and provides electrical continuity, so the electronic signal travels through the connection without interruption. The solder is melted using a soldering iron.Flux is used to clean and prep the surfaces, which allows the melted solder to flow (or «wet») and bond with the metal surfaces. 90009 90005 90004 Hand soldering is the process of soldering one connection (called «solder joint») at a time, compared to more automated soldering processes in wave soldering or reflow oven equipment. 90005 90004 90009 90005 90002 90003 What do I need to solder electronics? 90006 90007 90004 When soldering an electronic connector to a contact point (often called a «pad»), you generally need the following: 90005 90022 90023 A soldering iron capable of reaching the melting point of the solder 90024 90023 Wire solder, with or without a flux core 90024 90023 Flux if wire solder does not include a flux core or if the additional flux is needed 90024 90029 90002 90003 What is a soldering iron? 90006 90007 90004 A soldering iron is a hand tool used to solder two metal surfaces together.At its simplest form, it consists of a metal tip, a heating element that brings the tip up to soldering temperature, an insulated handle to allow safe holding of the soldering iron, and a plug for either a wall outlet or the soldering station. 90005 90004 The soldering tip’s job is to transfer heat from the heating element to the work. It has a copper interior, with is an effective and efficient thermal conductor, iron plating to protect the soft, corrosive-prone copper from flux and solder, and chrome-nickel plating to keep the flux from wetting up the tip.90005 90004 Beyond that, there are options that provide better control over the soldering iron temperature and heat response (time it takes to heat up again after soldering). Some soldering tips are metal slugs that rest against the heating element, and others are integrated with the heating element in a cartridge. 90009 90009 90009 90005 90002 90003 What is the difference between a soldering iron and a soldering station? 90006 90007 90004 On the low end, most appropriate for hobbyists, a soldering iron may plug directly into the electrical wall outlet, which provides no control over soldering iron temperature.Just on or off. With a soldering station, the soldering iron plugs into the station for greater control over temperature, and other features like set-temperature memory, lock-out, etc. 90005 90002 90003 What type of solder should I use? 90006 90007 90004 While there is a large variety of different types of solder, at the most basic, you need to choose between lead or lead-free, the diameter of the wire, flux core or solid wire, and the type of flux. 90005 90022 90023 90003 Lead or lead-free 90006 — Solder is generally a combination of metals, which are chosen for the best reliability and conductivity.Lead, often combined with tin, has been the mainstay of electronic soldering since there has been electronic soldering. Lead has a relatively low melting point and readily wets and flows, which makes the process faster, easier, and more fool-proof. Because of environmental and health concerns around lead, there has been pressure to move to lead-free solder, which is often a combination of tin and silver. Lead-free solders have a higher melting point and generally require more active or more concentrated fluxes (higher solids content) to achieve the same soldering performance as leaded solders.For typical manual soldering, if done properly, reliability should be about the same. For high-end electronics used in extreme environments (e.g. aerospace electronics), there are concerns with the tendency of bright tin to crystallize and form tin whiskers, thin wires of tin that can grow from the solder joints. 90004 If you are repairing or assembling electronics for use in the US, lead solder is the easiest to work with and provides the most reliable solder joints. The lower heat also generates less thermal stress on the rest of the PCB.If the end product is being shipped outside of the US, especially to Europe, you should consider lead-free solder. An exception might be for high-reliability electronics like used in aerospace. In that case, check with the specifications and requirements of the end-user of the electronics. Lead-free may still be required, or there may be exemptions in place that allow for the use of lead solder. 90005 90024 90023 90003 Diameter of solder wire 90006 — Make sure you do not confuse solder wire intended for plumbing with electronics solder wire.Wire for plumbing will be much thicker, 2mm diameter or higher. Electronics solder wire will be thinner, 1.5mm or smaller, down to 1 / 2mm or less. Match the diameter to the size of the connectors and contacts you are soldering. Too small and you will be going through too much solder, and too large could be hard to maneuver around a dense PCB, and could increase the chance of thermally stressing or even soldering other components that are unrelated to your repair. 90024 90023 90003 Flux core or solid wire 90006 — Most wire solder comes with a flux core, so the flux automatically activates and flows over the soldering area when the solder is melted.It is more convenient and efficient to work with. Solid wire can be used, with flux added with a brush, a bottle dispenser, or a pen dispenser. Unless a very specific flux is required that is not available as a wire solder core, flux core wire solder is generally recommended. 90024 90023 90003 Type of flux 90006 — No-clean flux is a good choice for soldering where cleaning is to be avoided. The light residue can be left on the board, or removed with a flux remover. Rosin activated flux (RA) provide excellent solderability in a wide variety of applications.It is best to remove the residue after soldering for aesthetics and avoid corrosion down-the-line. Rosin flux (R) or mildly activated rosin flux (RMA) can generally be left on the PCB after soldering unless the aesthetics are a problem. Water soluble flux (OA) is a very active flux engineered to be removed easily with DI water, like in a batch or in-line system. It can also be removed with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). It is very important to clean off water soluble flux residues because they are highly corrosive.90004 You may also see options for «halogen-free» or «zero halogen». This is for companies that have green initiatives, or have to comply with halogen restrictions due to regulatory or customer restrictions. Halogens include chlorine, fluorine, iodine, bromine and astatine elements. These can come with trade-offs like cleanability, so if you are not required to eliminate halogens from your process, it is easier to stay with standard fluxes with halogens. 90005 90024 90029 90009 90002 90003 Should I use lead or lead-free solder? 90006 90007 90004 If you are repairing or assembling electronics for use in the US, lead solder is the easiest to work with and provides the most reliable solder joints.The lower heat also generates less thermal stress on the rest of the PCB. If the end product is being shipped outside of the US, especially to Europe, you should consider lead-free solder. An exception might be for high-reliability electronics like used in aerospace. In that case, check with the specifications and requirements of the end-user of the electronics. Lead-free may still be required, or there may be exemptions in place that allow for the use of lead solder. 90005 90002 What is flux? 90007 90004 Think of flux and a prepping agent for the soldering process.When joining two metal surfaces together with solder, there needs to be a good metallurgic bond, so the solder joint does not break loose or electrical continuity fluctuate with mechanical, temperature and other stresses. Flux removes any oxidization that may be present and slightly etches the surface to promote wetting. «Wetting» is the process of solder flowing over the surface of the contacts and soldering tip, which is very important in the soldering process. 90005 90002 90003 What type of flux should I use? 90006 90007 90004 No-clean flux is a good choice for soldering where cleaning is to be avoided.The light residue can be left on the board, or removed with a flux remover. Rosin activated flux (RA) provide excellent solderability in a wide variety of applications. It is best to remove the residue after soldering for aesthetics and avoid corrosion down-the-line. Rosin flux (R) or mildly activated rosin flux (RMA) can generally be left on the PCB after soldering unless the aesthetics are a problem. Water soluble flux (OA) is a very active flux engineered to be removed easily with DI water, like in a batch or in-line system.It can also be removed with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). It is very important to clean off water soluble flux residues because they are highly corrosive. 90005 90004 You may also see options for «halogen-free» or «zero halogens». This is for companies that have green initiatives, or have to comply with halogen restrictions due to regulatory or customer restrictions. Halogens include chlorine, fluorine, iodine, bromine and astatine elements. These can come with trade-offs like cleanability, so if you are not required to eliminate halogens from your process, it is easier to stay with standard fluxes with halogens.90005 90002 90003 Do I need to add extra flux when soldering? 90004 90009 90005 90006 90007 90004 If soldering a simple connection, like 2 wires, or a thru-hole lead, the flux in a flux core solder should be enough. For more complex soldering techniques, like drag soldering multiple leads on a surface mount component, additional flux may need to be added. The flux is activated and consumed when it originally flows from the core. If the solder is worked further, like when you drag across multiple leads, you run the risk of cold joints or bridging without additional flux.While more seems like it should be better, take care not to over apply flux. Excess flux needs to be removed, especially if it is not fully activated by being heated to full soldering temperature. 90005 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 90003 How do I apply extra flux? 90006 90007 90004 Flux can be painted on with an acid brush, applied with a needle bottle dispenser, or with a pen dispenser. While more seems like it should be better, take care not to over apply flux. Excess flux needs to be removed, especially if it is not fully activated by being heated to full soldering temperature.90005 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 90003 How do I solder? 90006 90007 90119 90023 Make sure the surfaces to be soldered are clean. 90024 90023 Turn on the soldering iron and set temperature above the melting point of your solder. 600 ° -650 ° F (316 ° -343 ° C) is a good place to start for lead-based solder and 650 ° -700 ° F (343 ° -371 ° C) for lead-free solder. 90024 90023 Hold the tip against both the lead and contact point / pad for a few seconds. The idea is to bring both up to a soldering temperature at the same time.90024 90023 Touch the solder wire to the lead and contact point / pad a few times until solder flows around the lead and contact. 90024 90023 Inspect the solder joint to make sure there is full coverage over the contact area and lead. If it is a thru-hole lead, the hole should be filled and the solder joints a slight pyramid shape. 90024 90023 If necessary, trim the lead with a shear lead cutter. Do not trim into the solder joint, which can damage the connection. 90024 90023 If using rosin activated flux, aqueous flux, or if the aesthetics of the flux residue is a problem, clean the area with a flux remover.90024 90134 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 90003 How hot do I set the solder iron? 90006 90007 90004 600 ° -650 ° F (316 ° -343 ° C) is a good place to start for lead-based solder and 650 ° -700 ° F (343 ° -371 ° C) for lead-free solder. You want the tip hot enough to melt the solder efficiency, but excess heat can damage components as the heat travels along the leads, and it will reduce the life of the soldering tip. 90005 90002 90003 How do I tell a good solder joint from a bad one? 90006 90007 90004 Inspect the solder joint to make sure there is full coverage over the contact area and lead.Some things to watch out for: 90005 90022 90023 If it is a thru-hole lead, the hole should be filled and the solder joints a slight pyramid shape. 90024 90023 If a surface mounts solder joint, the solder should fully cover the contact pad and surround the lead. 90024 90023 The lead should not be loose or wiggle once it is soldered. 90024 90023 The solder should not overflow or bridge onto other contact points / pads. 90024 90023 If using lead-based solder, the solder joint should be shiny.Unfortunately, lead-free tends to have a duller finish, so not a good indicator in that case. 90024 90029 90002 90003 How do I select the best soldering tip for my PCB repair job? 90004 90009 90005 90006 90007 90004 The goal is to match the tip shape and size to the contact pad. That allows you to maximize the contact surface area, so you heat the lead and contact area as quickly as possible. If you choose a tip that is too large, you have more tip volume to heat, which will slow down the heat recovery, the time it takes for the tip to reheat after soldering a joint.It also runs the risk of interfering with other components and contact areas. If you choose a tip that is too small, you will not have enough surface area of ​​the tip in contact with the lead and contact area to transfer heat efficiently. It will take more dwell time, which slows you down and could increase the thermal stress of the component. 90005 90004 Make sure you are using a soldering iron and tips intended for electronic PCB soldering. Tips intended for other applications, like stained glass, plumbing, or heavy electrical work, are generally much larger than what is appropriate for electronics.90005 90004 Soldering tips come in all kinds of shapes to facilitate different PCB geometries: 90005 90022 90023 90003 Pointed or conical 90006 — The end of the soldering tip comes to either a point or around the flat area. The size is specified by the diameter of the end, so can be as small as 0.1mm or larger than 1mm. These tips are generally used when pin-point accuracy is needed, like with very fine leadless surface mount components. They may be long for greater reach in dense board design, or a shorter microtip to reduce the amount of tip metal that needs to be heated.This can improve heat recovery. The ends of the tips may also be bent to avoid interfering with other components or contact areas. 90024 90023 90003 Blade or knife 90006 — A blade tip is usually used for drag soldering when the solder is drawn across multiple contact pads. This is common when soldering surface mount technology (SMT) components. The size is measured along the length of the blade and can be 6.3mm (1/4 «) or larger. 90024 90023 90003 Chisel or screwdriver 90006 — A chisel allows you to heat a larger contact area, so useful for thru-hole solder joints.Lengths may vary and can also be bent, like with a conical tip. The size is mainly specified as the length of the flat area, but the depth or thickness of the tip may also vary. These can be so small they almost look like a point, like under 1mm, and as wide as 5 or 6mm. 90024 90023 90003 Bevel 90006 — A beveled tip has a flat oval end set at an angle. Picture a metal rod that is a cross section at an angle. The size is specified by the diameter of the «rod» or shaft and sometimes the angle of the bevel.A bevel can be as small as 1mm or 4mm or larger. 90024 90023 90003 Flow tips 90006 — A flow tip looks similar in design as a beveled tip, but instead of a flat area, it is a little indention or cup. This is also called a «mini-wave tip», and is commonly used for drag soldering, as explained above. 90024 90029 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 Is it ok to set the heat at maximum temperature to speed up soldering? 90007 In soldering, like everything else, speed is king. Operators will turn up the soldering temperature to speed up heat throughput.This allows them to go from one solder joint to the next faster. The catch — the higher the heat, the shorter the tip life. Sure, solder stations may go up to 900 ° F, but 750 ° F is the highest you need to go for a lead-free wire. The extra heat can also unnecessarily stress components, increasing the chances of PCB failure later. 90002 90003 Why is the solder dripping off the soldering tip? 90006 90007 90004 That is an indication that the soldering tip needs to be cleaned, so it is a «cold» tip (although it is still very hot, so do not touch!).When flux and oxidation build up over time, the heat does not transfer as effectively and the solder does not wet, or flow over the tip properly. The solder will tend to melt but just drip off the tip. This makes it difficult to move to solder around contact areas the way you may need it. 90005 90002 90003 How to clean a soldering iron? 90009 90009 90006 90007 90004 Solder stations normally come with a sponge and / or brass «brillo» pad. The purpose is to remove excess flux and solder from the tip.If too much flux builds up and burns onto the soldering tip, it will eventually dewet and be unusable (but not necessarily unrecoverable). Unless the tip cleaning tools are used properly, they can do more harm than good. When choosing a sponge, make sure it is made of natural cellulose (like Plato replacement sponges). Synthetic sponges will melt onto the soldering tip and can shorten tip life. Use clean DI water. Tap water may include minerals that can build-up on the tip. When you saturate the sponge, wring it out so it is not dripping wet.Too much water can increase the thermal stress of the tip, and slow down tip recovery. 90009 90009 90005 90004 When the soldering tip has turned black from baked on fluxes and no longer wets properly, it is time for the cleaning tools of last resort. Tip tinner (Plato # TT-95) is a combination of lead-free solder and cleaner. While the soldering iron is at full temperature, roll it in the tip tinner. As you roll it, it should change from black to shiny silver as the baked flux is cleaned off.Then wipe off the excess tip tinner from the soldering tip, and retin using wire solder. Do not let the name fool you — «tip tinner» is not intended to be left on the tip. 90005 90004 Polishing bars are also available and used to scrub the tip clean of flux residues. This should only be used as a last resort because you will be removing iron along with the burnt flux. Once a tip shows pitting, actual holes in the iron, it is time to be replaced. 90005 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 90003 Is a brass «brillo pad» or sponge better for cleaning soldering tips? 90006 90007 90004 Like everything else, there are pros and cons to each: 90005 90002 90003 Brass Tip Cleaner 90004 90005 90006 90007 90022 90023 Pro-Fast and easy to use, does not require saturating with water, and does not thermally shock the soldering tip.90024 90023 Con — It is abrasive, although brass is softer than the iron on the end of the tip. It has more of a tendency to scratch the chrome plating, which keeps the solder from wetting up the tip. That could allow corrosion to creep in under the plating, reducing the life of the tip. 90024 90029 90004 Remember to use a jabbing motion using a brass tip cleaner. Wiping across the surface increases the likelihood of flinging molten solder. 90005 90002 90003 Cellulose Sponge 90009 90009 90006 90007 90022 90023 Pro — It is an effective and fast way to clean a tip.They come with different holes or slits to make it even faster and easier, and to avoid flinging molten solder. 90024 90023 Con — Cools down the tip, so requires the tip to heat up again. It also can thermally shock the tip, especially if the sponge is overly saturated. This can shorten the tip life by creating micro-fractures in the iron plating. 90024 90029 Make sure you are using a cellulose sponge that is intended for cleaning soldering tips. Cellulose is a natural material derived from wood pulp.It will not melt and damage the soldering tip as a synthetic sponge would. The sponge should not be soaking wet, just lightly damp. Wring it out thoroughly after saturating with Deionized (DI) water. DI water is recommended to prevent mineral build-up on the soldering tip. Once your soldering tip has been cleaned, remember to retin by melting on a small amount of solder on the end of the tip. This prevents the working end of the tip, which is iron, from corroding when exposed to air over a period of time.Associated products: 90002 90003 Should I clean all the solder off the soldering tip after I’m finished soldering? 90006 90007 It is a common practice to wipe down the soldering tip before putting it back into its holder. This exposes the raw iron on the working end of the tip, which will rust in the open air. Add any residual flux to the mix, and you have a prematurely pitted soldering tip. Before taking a break or stopping for the day, wipe off residual flux and solder, and retin by applying fresh solder to the end of the tip.90002 90003 What can I do to increase soldering tip life? 90006 90007 90004 Since the move from lead to lead-free solders, a common complaint has been short tip life. The higher heat needed for lead-free solders and flux with greater activity all leads to faster tip burn-out. Often the tips turn black, and the solder beads and just drips off the end of the tip. It may also be referred to as a «cold tip», but take care not to touch it with your bare fingers! 90005 90004 Soldering tips have a copper core that transfers heat from the heating element to the working end (tip of the tip).Because copper is very soft and easily corroded and worn away, other metals are used to plate over the copper, including an outer layer of iron. Although iron is very hard, it will still corrode eventually. In addition, it can be coated with flux and other soils, which can cause dewetting. Corrosion and dewetting will slow down soldering and eventually necessitate scrapping the tip. Although all tips will have their day in the trash bin, there are several steps an operator can take to increase tip life: 90005 90119 90023 Turn down the heat 90024 90023 Properly clean the tip 90024 90023 Tin the soldering tip 90024 90023 Use special cleaning tools 90024 90134 90004 When leaving the solder station for anything over 5 minutes, turn off it off.When you leave the station turned on, the tip remains at soldering temperature, further reducing tip life. Modern soldering equipment heats up to a soldering temperature in seconds, so the time savings is not worth the reduction in tip life. 90005 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 When should I throw away an old soldering tip? 90007 90004 When the tip is black and dewetting (solder does not cling to it), called a «cold tip», it can generally be cleaned and used again. Once there is pitting and visible corrosion, it is time for a new tip.The outside of a soldering tip is plated with iron over the thermally conductive copper center. This protects the soft, corrosion-prone copper from the harsh fluxes. Once flux gets through the iron plating through pits, the tip will be eaten away quickly. 90005 90002 90003 How can I avoid corrosion on the PCB after I’m finished soldering? 90006 90007 90004 Flux residues can cause dendritic growth and corrosion on PCB assemblies, so make sure you’re using best practices and clean the board.After all, the components have been replaced and excess solder removed … 90005 90022 90023 Clean the area thoroughly with a quality flux remover. 90024 90023 Angle the board to allow the cleaner and residues to run off. 90024 90023 If needed, use a horsehair brush or lint-free wipe to gently scrub the PCB, and then follow with a rinse. 90024 90023 If using a wipe, make sure it does not leave fibers / lint on your PCB, which may cause issues later. 90024 90029 90004 This is an optional step for no-clean flux, but still a good idea for densely populated or high voltage boards.It is absolutely required, regardless of the flux type, if you plan to follow your repair with conformal coating. 90005 90004 Associated products: 90005 90002 90007 90002 90003 10 tips to good soldering 90006 90007 90119 90023 Start with a clean surface. 90024 90023 Match the size of your wire solder to what you are soldering. 90024 90023 Match your soldering tip to what you are soldering. 90024 90023 Select your solder and flux carefully. 90024 90023 Keep your tip clean and tinned.90024 90023 Select a soldering temperature that is hot enough to efficiently melt the solder, but not too hot. 90024 90023 Hold the soldering tip to the lead and contact point / pad until both are brought up to temperature. 90024 90023 Apply enough solder to cover the contact pad and surround the lead. 90024 90023 If necessary, trim your leads with a sharp shear lead cutter, and do not trim into the solder joint. 90024 90023 Clean flux residues from the soldering area with a quality flux remover.90024 90134 90004 Associated products: 90005 .90000 The Best Soldering Irons For Stained Glass Work — 2020 Buyer’s Guide 90001 90002 Many stained glass artists keep three different irons ranging from light duty to heavy duty. For 90003 light duty 90004 projects, I recommend the 90003 Hakko FX601 90004 as the best stained glass soldering iron for light work and repairs. For 90003 medium duty 90004 work, the 90003 Weller W100PG 100w Soldering Iron 90004 will handle just about anything and is considered the best soldering iron for stained glass work if you only purchase one.For any 90003 heavy duty 90004 work, 90003 American Beauty Heavy Duty 200w 90004 is a true work horse and extremely reliable. 90015 90002 Stained glass windows, as well as other colored glass art mediums, date as far back as the 7th century. Hundreds of pieces of colored glass and lead were discovered in windows of the monastery of St Peter. Back then the tools were obviously different but the same principles apply, construct a mosaic of glass pieces, and keep it together by soldering the pieces with lead.90015 90002 I was first introduced to stained glass work as a child. My cousin is a professional stained glass artist and my mother helped out some, also doing her own projects as a hobby. I have vivid memories of both of them hovering over tiny intricate designs of colored glass mosaics, fingertips dark from lead, smoke rising as they soldered each piece together. 90015 90002 There are many stained glass tools and accessories used in the process of creating a beautiful stained glass art piece.From stained glass soldering tips to the solder used for stained glass art, I will briefly touch on those items but today we are talking about the best soldering iron for stained glass but he. Over the years I have learned what makes soldering iron attributes are important for applying stained glass solder by watching my family and asking them about it. 90015 90002 Their information was very informative when I was in the process of choosing my very own set of stained glass soldering irons. Whether you are a beginner or seasoned artist, I have rounded up a list of the best soldering irons for stained glass! 90015 90024 90002 After cutting your glass and 90003 grinding it smooth 90004 you need to assemble it with solder.Soldering iron’s main purpose is to apply concentrated heat to the medium and solder to bond two pieces of medium together. Whether the medium you are bonding is lead, copper, or brass they require a heat source, but brass, for instance, can sometimes require a heavy-duty iron. I’ll quickly go over the important attributes and details so you can choose what will work best for you to start creating your own beautiful pieces. 90015 90029 Stained Glass Soldering Iron: How Should They Perform 90030 90031 90032 90003 WATTS 90004: The wattage of a soldering iron is an indicator of how powerful it is.However, it is not an indicator of performance, and more power does not always mean better. It is one aspect of how quickly the iron will get up to temperature, but heat retention and recovery are also affected by other components. 90002 The most common stained glass soldering iron wattage will be between 65-300 watts. Low power is 65 watts, medium or all-purpose power range being around 100-150 watts. Heavy duty is 200 watts and over. 90015 90037 90032 90003 ELEMENT 90004: There are two types of elements used in soldering irons, a Nichrome wire element and a ceramic element.The Nichrome wire element is a resistance wire that conducts heat through electrical resistance. The ceramic element heats based on the same principle but has different characteristics. 90041 90002 American Beauty soldering iron with wire element. 90015 90002 90003 Nichrome Elements 90004 used in soldering irons are usually bigger and heat up a larger metal body. This larger body conducts heat to the tip. The large body means the Nichrome equipped iron can store more heat and the tip temperature will drop more slowly.In practical terms, this style should supply more sustained heat enabling longer sustained use in theory. 90015 90002 Hakko soldering iron with ceramic element. 90015 90002 90003 Ceramic Elements 90004 used in soldering irons are typically smaller and heat up the ceramic body much closer to the tip. The ceramic body conducts heat to the tip. This translates to much faster heating times but less sustained heat. Losing too much heat will the lessen the ability to liquefy the solder over time when continuously feeding it.Again, in theory but not always in practice. 90015 90002 90041 You are probably wondering which is better but that is a trick question. For smaller units and light to medium uses the difference should not really impact most people. This becomes more a matter of preference but again, take into account the type of soldering you will do; long continuous runs requiring sustained heat like that offered by the wire element, or short and quick beads which ceramic elements handle nicely. That said, for the larger heavy duty jobs, you will almost always need the larger wire element units as heating up larger parts will require that built up capacity.90015 90037 90032 90003 TEMP CONTROLLER 90004: Though marketed as a temperature controller, these units actually only regulate the wattage sent to the element. Usually the temperature at the tip will constantly vary which is not great while working. 90037 90062 90029 Soldering Irons: Other Things To Consider 90030 90031 90032 90003 TYPE / STYLE 90004: Handle type soldering irons are available in two different styles or configurations. The pencil style which should be pretty self-explanatory, is just a straight unit from handle to tip.The hatchet style is bent up to 90 degrees where the handle and element meet giving the unit an «L» shape. This re-positions the center of gravity closer to the hand offering ergonomic feel and working angle. 90037 90032 90003 TIPS 90004: There are many different tips available for irons. There is a chisel tip, an angle chisel, conical, and point tips. All of which available in varying sizes. The chisel tip is the most commonly used for stained glass soldering. 90037 90032 90003 ACCESSORIES 90004: When purchasing your soldering iron for stained glass work, it is good to have a few accessories on hand.A cleaning sponge or a brass coil is a must to keep you tips clean. An iron stand is also a must have to keep the it accessible and shield the hot parts from accidental burns. 90037 90062 90024 90080 The Best Stained Glass Soldering Iron — Top 5 Reviews 90081 90002 90015 90002 «All Around Best Soldering Iron For Stained Glass Work» 90015 90002 Weller soldering irons are well known throughout the stained glass world for good reason. They are widely used as they are reliable, last years, and can handle a wide variety of uses making it the perfect soldering iron for stained glass work.The nichrome wound element provides ample heat capacity for most projects and can sustain enough heat through long runs to keep solder flowing. 90015 90002 Wire wound elements usually take longer to get up to temperature compared to ceramic, but this Weller 100w soldering iron has enough wattage that you will not be waiting long to for it to heat up. Another great thing is the W100PG is temperature regulated so you can be sure that it will melt the solder but no the lead came used in stained glass.90015 90002 The tips are interchangeable and easy to change at that which is great for those who go back and forth between tips. Weller’s W10PG is also well balanced in the hand and does not feel cumbersome or overly heavy after using it for long stretches. 90015 90002 If you are just starting out in the stain glass art or are a professional, you just can not beat the Weller W100PG. It is not often you find products that are durable and at a price that you can actually consider this a cheap stained glass soldering iron.Pair it with a great soldering iron station and you will not be disappointed. 90041 90015 90024 90002 90015 90002 «Best Stained Glass Soldering Iron With A Ceramic Element And Variable Temp» 90015 90002 The Hakko FX601 is ceramic element soldering iron which is great for two things. It is very light since it lacks a large metal element, and heats up extremely fast. This is the best option for Hakko stained glass soldering irons because it has ample power to heat the tip back up to temp quickly if it cools too much but it will not get too hot that it will melt the lead came.90015 90002 This soldering iron only has 67 watts but it pretty comparable to a 100-watt soldering iron that has a wire element instead of a ceramic element. While adjustable temperature soldering irons usually do not hold a consistent temperature, the FX601 maintains a + -10 degrees range and is not really an issue. The heat recovery is also really fast which is great if you find yourself cleaning the tip often. 90015 90002 This is really best soldering iron for small to medium stained glass projects, although it can really handle most things.Just keep in mind for larger projects that may require large solder pools and larger framing you may run out of the heat during sustained soldering. 90015 90002 If your needs require a soldering iron that heats quickly or is lightweight than this is the one. If you are having trouble deciding between the Weller 100 watt and the Hakko, it really comes down to preference. Each has an equal trade-off, one heating faster and the other holding heat longer, which again, think about how you use soldering irons for your stained glass projects.90041 90015 90024 90002 90015 90002 «Best Medium Duty Stained Glass Soldering Iron With An Ergo Handle» 90015 90002 If you are not familiar with American Beauty and their line of soldering irons you are not the only one. This manufacturer is more known among industrial workers and skilled tradesman but some larger stained glass shops are familiar as that is how I first heard of them. The company has been around for decades and I know folks who swear they have American Beauty soldering irons that are just as old.90015 90002 This is a brand that is well known for quality as well as regarded for being made in America. They have excellent customer service as well and handle repairs promptly. Of course, this all comes at cost premium and you will pay much more for their line of irons. That said, this particular soldering iron with a hatchet handle is very ergonomic and is really great if you need to solder odd angles or just prefer holding it this way. 90015 90002 Users also comment on the paragon iron-clad lead-free soldering tip for performance and lasting a very long time.The modular construction also allows for easily swapping out parts. The American Beauty 100 watt ergo is very heavy duty and will last a very long time. It is also available in even higher wattage configurations if you need something for larger jobs. 90015 90002 If you have tried Weller and Hakko but you still are not satisfied the American Beauty line of soldering irons is worth the look. They also offer a wide range of units with hundreds of watts of power which is good for artists who prefer using the same manufacturer as they can predict the performance across models.90041 90015 90024 90002 90015 90002 «Best Heavy Duty Soldering Iron For Stained Glass Work» 90015 90002 A soldering iron that has no problem keeping up with production and finishing ahead of schedule, American Beauty offers quality irons that regarded as well made and heavy duty. These units are so well made you can sometimes find them used many years old needing little maintenance to get them operating like new. 90015 90002 This 200 watt soldering iron has enough heat capacity to solder large thick pieces of metal.Stained glass projects that are mounted into larger metal frames would benefit greatly from this unit. Owners of the heavy duty American Beauty soldering irons typically leave them on all day, day in and day out and the units continue to operate and perform perfectly without breaking down. 90015 90002 If you are hard on your irons and work on large jobs requiring constant heat and large heat capacity, this would serve you well. It is important to note that these units are custom made with quality parts so some repairs may need to be handled by the manufacturer but they do have great service.90041 90015 90024 90002 90015 90002 «Best Heavy Duty Stained Glass Soldering Iron Over 200 Watts» 90015 90002 Hexacon is another great and very reliable soldering iron manufacturer that has been around for a very long time, that you may not have heard about. Their reputation is mostly known among industrial companies but the stained glass community has caught on to how great these soldering irons are, especially those doing large projects working with thicker metals. 90015 90002 Like American Beauty, Hexacon soldering irons are a heavy-duty workhorse made with a heavy-duty plug-tip and designed for continuous operation with fast heat recovery.The case is machined from nickel-plated alloy steel and will store a large amount of heat capacity. The protective front nut will absorb the impact and shock that would otherwise damage the element whenever the hot iron is dropped. 90015 90002 At 250 watts and available with even more wattage, if you find yourself working with brass or any other thicker metals in your stained glass operation you should certainly consider a unit like this. The cost of a heavy-duty Hexagon soldering iron is certainly something to consider but the speed and efficiency you will achieve with one on a large job will prove it worth it.90041 90015 90024 90024 90002 90041 I hope you found the list and guide useful. Be sure and let us know what your experience has been with any of these or any other model you have tried! 90015 90080 You have Successfully Subscribed! 90081.90000 Electronics Club — Soldering Guide 90001 Electronics Club — Soldering Guide — how to solder, precautions, heat sink, desoldering, burns treatment 90002 90003 How to solder | Heat sink | Components | Solder | Desoldering | Burns 90004 90003 For information about soldering irons and other tools please see the Tools page. 90004 90003 Download a PDF version of this page: Soldering Guide (PDF) 90004 90009 90010 How to Solder 90011 90012 First a few safety precautions: 90013 90003 90015 Never touch the element or tip of the soldering iron.90016 They are very hot (about 400 ° C) and will give you a nasty burn. 90004 90003 90015 Take great care to avoid touching the mains flex with the tip of the iron. 90016 The iron should have a heatproof flex for extra protection. An ordinary plastic flex will melt immediately if touched by a hot iron and there is a serious risk of burns and electric shock. 90004 90003 90015 Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use. 90016 Never put it down on your workbench, even for a moment! 90004 90003 90015 Work in a well-ventilated area.90016 The smoke formed as you melt solder is mostly from the flux and quite irritating. Avoid breathing it by keeping you head to the side of, not above, your work. 90004 90003 90015 Wash your hands after using solder. 90016 Traditional solder contains lead which is a poisonous metal. 90004 90003 If you burn yourself see First Aid for Burns. 90004 90036 90003 90004 90003 I strongly recommend using a soldering iron with a 90015 heatproof silicone cable 90016 for safety because it will not melt if accidentally touched with the hot iron.90004 90003 For example this 230V soldering iron from Rapid Electronics: soldering iron 90004 90012 Preparing the soldering iron: 90013 90003 90015 Place the soldering iron in its stand and plug in. 90016 The iron will take a few minutes to reach its operating temperature of about 400 ° C. 90004 90003 90015 Dampen the sponge in the stand. 90016 The best way to do this is to lift it out the stand and hold it under a cold tap for a moment, then squeeze to remove excess water. It should be damp, not dripping wet.90004 90003 90015 Wait a few minutes for the soldering iron to warm up. 90016 You can check if it is ready by trying to melt a little solder on the tip. 90004 90003 90015 Wipe the tip of the iron on the damp sponge. 90016 This will clean the tip. 90004 90003 90015 Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron. 90016 This is called ‘tinning’ and it will help the heat to flow from the iron’s tip to the joint. It only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge.90004 90012 You are now ready to start soldering: 90013 90003 90015 Hold the soldering iron like a pen, near the base of the handle 90016 (Imagine you are going to write your name). Remember to never touch the hot element or tip. 90004 90003 90015 Touch the soldering iron onto the joint to be made. 90016 Make sure it touches both the component lead and the track. Hold the tip there for a few seconds and … 90004 90003 90015 Feed a little solder onto the joint. 90016 It should flow smoothly onto the lead and track to form a volcano shape as shown in the diagram.Apply the solder to the joint, not the iron. 90004 90003 90015 Remove the solder, then the iron, while keeping the joint still. 90016 Allow the joint a few seconds to cool before you move the circuit board. 90004 90003 90015 Inspect the joint closely. 90016 It should look shiny and have a ‘volcano’ shape. If not, you will need to reheat it and feed in a little more solder. This time ensure that 90015 both 90016 the lead and track are heated fully before applying solder. 90004 90003 If you burn yourself see First Aid for Burns below.90004 90093 90003 90004 90003 Short of money for your electronics projects? Sell ​​your old iPhone, iPad, MacBook or other Apple device: macback.co.uk 90004 90009 90010 Using a heat sink 90011 90101 90003 Some components, such as transistors, can be damaged by heat when soldering so if you are not an expert it is wise to use a heat sink clipped to the lead between the joint and the component body. You can buy a special tool, but a standard crocodile clip (without a plastic cover) works just as well and is cheaper.90004 90003 The heat sink works by taking some of the heat being supplied by the soldering iron and this helps to prevent the component’s temperature increasing too much. 90004 90003 Rapid Electronics: crocodile clip 90004 90009 90009 90010 Soldering Advice for Components 90011 90112 90003 It is very tempting to start soldering components onto the circuit board straight away, but please take time to identify all the parts first. Sticking them onto a sheet of scrap paper and labelling each one is worthwhile and you are less likely to make a mistake if you do this.90004 90003 90015 Some ICs are static sensitive 90016 and will be supplied in antistatic packaging — leave these ICs in their packaging until you need them, then earth your hands by touching a metal water pipe or window frame before handling the ICs. 90004 90119 90120 Stick the components onto paper using sticky tape. 90121 90120 Identify each component and write its name or value beside it. 90121 90120 Add the labels (R1, R2, C1 etc.) used in the project diagram too if necessary. 90121 90120 Resistor values ​​can be found using the colour code explained on the resistors page.You can make your own colour code calculator. 90121 90120 Capacitor values ​​can be a little more difficult, the various labelling systems are explained on the capacitors page. 90121 90130 90012 Some components require special care when soldering. 90013 90003 Many must be placed the correct way round and a few can be easily damaged by the heat from soldering. 90004 90003 The table shows advice for the various components and a suggested order to put them on the board. Generally it is best to start with the smallest parts but for stripboard it is helpful to start with the IC holder (s) as a reference point for other parts.90004 90012 Wire links 90013 90003 90015 Wire links between points on the board 90016 can be made with plastic-coated single core wire which will need stripping, or tinned copper wire if the link will not touch other parts. Tinned copper wire looks just like solder but you can feel the difference, it is stiffer than solder (and it will not melt). 90004 90003 90015 Wires to parts off the board 90016 need to be flexible so use plastic-coated stranded wire for these, a popular type is 7 / 0.2mm wire (7 strands of 0.2 mm diameter wire). 90146 Single core wire is unsuitable because it snaps when repeatedly flexed. 90147 90004 90003 Rapid Electronics: 7 / 0.2mm wire pack 90004 90151 90152 90153 90015 Soldering Components 90016 90156 Put components on the board in this order: 90157 90158 90152 90153 90161 90015 1. IC Holders 90016 90156 Connect the correct way round — the notch will remind you which way to place the IC. 90146 Do NOT insert the ICs yet. 90147 90157 90158 90152 90153 90171 90015 2.Resistors 90016 90156 Connect either way round. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90015 3. Small value capacitors 90016 90181 90156 Small value capacitors (<1μF) are not polarised. Connect either way round. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90015 4. Electrolytic capacitors (1μF +) 90016 90189 90156 Connect the correct way round, look for a + or - near one lead. They may be radial style (both leads at one end) or axial style (leads at each end). 90157 90158 90152 90153 90195 90015 5.Diodes 90016 90156 Connect the correct way round. The stripe marks the cathode (line on symbol) usually labelled k on diagrams. 90156 90146 For germanium diodes use a heat sink. 90147 90157 90158 90152 90153 90206 90015 6. LEDs 90016 90156 Connect the correct way round, the cathode is the short lead. The diagram will have a or + for anode, k or - for cathode. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90214 90015 7. Transistors 90016 90156 Transistors have 3 'legs' (leads) so take extra care to connect them correctly.They can be damaged by heat, use a heat sink until you can solder quickly. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90222 90015 8. Wire Links 90016 90156 Links between points on the board can be made with plastic-coated single core wire, or tinned copper wire if the link will not touch other parts. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90015 9. Parts with their own wires 90016 90156 Battery clips, buzzers etc. Connect the correct way round if necessary. 90157 90158 90152 90153 90015 10. Wires to parts off the board 90016 90239 90156 Use stranded wire for switches, relays, loudspeakers, variable resistors etc.90157 90158 90152 90153 90015 11. ICs (chips) 90016 90247 90156 Connect the correct way round, look for the notch or dot near pin 1. Make sure all the pins are lined up with the socket before pushing down firmly with your thumb. 90157 90158 90251 90009 90010 What is solder? 90011 90255 90003 90015 Traditional solder 90016 is an alloy (mixture) of tin and lead, typically 60% tin and 40% lead. It melts at a temperature of about 200 ° C. 90004 90003 Modern 90015 lead-free solder 90016 is an alloy of tin with other metals including copper and silver.It melts at a temperature of about 220 ° C. 90004 90003 Coating a surface with solder is called 'tinning' because of the tin content of solder. 90004 90003 90267 Photograph © Rapid Electronics 90268 90004 90003 90015 Always wash your hands after using solder 90016, this is especially important with traditional solder because it contains lead which is toxic. 90004 90003 The best size of solder for electronics is 22 swg (swg = standard wire gauge) and I recommend using lead-free solder.90004 90003 Rapid Electronics: lead-free solder 90004 90003 Solder for electronics use contains tiny cores of flux, like the wires inside a mains flex. The flux is corrosive, like an acid, and it cleans the metal surfaces as the solder melts. This is why you must melt the solder actually on the joint, not on the iron tip. Without flux most joints would fail because metals quickly oxidise and the solder itself will not flow properly onto a dirty, oxidised, metal surface. 90004 90009 90009 90010 Desoldering 90011 90003 At some stage you will probably need to desolder a joint to remove or re-position a wire or component.There are two ways to remove the solder: 90004 90286 1. With a desoldering pump 90287 90003 Also known as a 'solder sucker'. It is best to use one with an ESD (electrostatic discharge) nozzle to protect some ICs which can be damaged by static electricity. 90004 90119 90120 Set the pump by pushing the spring-loaded plunger down until it locks. 90121 90120 Apply both the pump nozzle and the tip of your soldering iron to the joint. 90121 90120 Wait a second or two for the solder to melt.90121 90120 Then press the button on the pump to release the plunger and suck the molten solder into the tool. 90121 90120 Repeat if necessary to remove as much solder as possible. 90121 90120 The pump will need emptying occasionally by unscrewing the nozzle. 90121 90130 90003 Rapid Electronics: desolder pump 90004 90306 90003 Using a desoldering pump (solder sucker) 90004 90286 2. With solder remover braid 90287 90003 The copper braid acts as a wick for the molten solder which readily flows onto the braid, away from the joint.90004 90119 90120 Apply both the end of the copper braid and the tip of your soldering iron to the joint. 90121 90120 As the solder melts most of it will flow onto the braid, away from the joint. 90121 90120 Remove the braid first, then the soldering iron. 90121 90120 Cut off and discard the end of the braid coated with solder. 90121 90130 90003 Rapid Electronics: desolder braid 90004 90003 After removing most of the solder from the joint (s) you may be able to remove the wire or component lead straight away (allow a few seconds for it to cool).If the joint will not come apart easily apply your soldering iron to melt the remaining traces of solder at the same time as pulling the joint apart, taking care to avoid burning yourself. 90004 90009 90010 First Aid for Burns 90011 90003 Most burns from soldering are likely to be minor and treatment is simple: 90004 90119 90120 90015 Immediately cool the affected area under gently running cold water. 90016 90156 Keep the burn in the cold water for at least 5 minutes (15 minutes is recommended).If ice is readily available this can be helpful too, but do not delay the initial cooling with cold water. 90121 90120 90015 Do not apply any creams or ointments. 90016 90156 The burn will heal better without them. A dry dressing, such as a clean handkerchief, may be applied if you wish to protect the area from dirt. 90121 90120 90015 Seek medical attention if the burn covers an area bigger than your hand. 90016 90121 90130 90003 To reduce the risk of burns: 90004 90350 90120 Always return your soldering iron to its stand immediately after use.90121 90120 Allow joints and components a minute or so to cool down before you touch them. 90121 90120 Never touch the element or tip of a soldering iron unless you are certain it is cold. 90121 90357 90009 90003 Rapid Electronics have kindly allowed me to use their images on this website and I am very grateful for their support. They stock a wide range of components, tools and materials for electronics and I am happy to recommend them as a supplier. 90004 90009 90286 Privacy Policy & Cookies 90287 90003 90267 This website does not collect personal information.If you send an email your email address and any personal information will be used only to respond to your message, it will not be given to anyone else. This website displays advertisements, if you click on these the advertiser may know that you came from this site and I may be rewarded. No personal information is passed to advertisers. This website uses some cookies classed as 'strictly necessary', they are essential for operation of the website and can not be refused but they do not contain any personal information.This website uses the Google AdSense service which uses cookies to serve advertisements based on your use of websites (Including this one) as explained by Google. To learn how to delete and control cookies from your browser please visit AboutCookies.org. 90268 90004 90003 electronicsclub.info © John Hewes 2020 90004 90003 Website hosted by Tsohost 90004 .